The sender unit may be fitted in the top or the side of the tank. If you accidentally get petrol in your mouth, spit it out immediately and rinse your mouth out with plenty of clean water. When you see petrol rising in the tube, quickly plunge the other end into the can. Push one end to the bottom of the tank and suck gently at the other end. If you do not have one, use several feet of clear plastic tube. If siphoning is possible, use a special siphon If the tank will not empty through the pipe, it may be possible to siphon the fuel out through the filler hole, but anti-siphon devices are often fitted. Otherwise, try to empty the tank by disconnecting the fuel pipe or pipes.
The cans or containers must be marked and purpose made, and must not be kept in the house.Ī few cars have a tank drain plug. Note that in Britain you can store up to two metal cans each holding 2 gallons (9 litres) of petrol, or up to two plastic containers each holding 5 litres (1.1 gallons).
Only if all else fails should you drain the tank. You may be able to check the level through the filler with a You must be sure that the fuel level is well below the sender hole - and this is difficult to judge with the gauge not working. If it is in the tank side, removing it may let petrol gush out. The sender unit is mounted through the tank wall, and removing it leaves a hole. Leads, as a precaution against accidental sparks. There is always petrol vapour in it - even if it has been empty for months which the slightest heat orīefore doing any repair or replacement work on the tank, take off the
To read 'full' constantly, although the car has travelled some distance and has obviously used an amount of petrol.Īn empty tank can be more of a risk than a full one. Or it may be a faulty gauge or a break in the wiring between the gauge and sender. Check to be sure the float arm can move freely and will not stick in a corner of the tank or against a vertical wall.When you know there is fuel in the tank, the cause may be a faulty sender unit the electrical device that measures the level. Mark the screw holes in the tank for easier alignment the flange will cover them and make them difficult to locate. When the gasket is aligned, mark it in relation to the flange, as it may turn while you are centering the screw holes to match the tank holes. Be sure to slide a new gasket into place under the flange, then align the gasket with the holes in the sender and in the tank.
Install the new sender by lowering the float and float arm into the tank. One wire goes to the center pin on the tank sending unit, one goes to ground, and the third connects to a 12-volt source, normally the ignition switch. Next, remove the three wires on the back of the old gauge. Remove the screws that hold the sending unit to the tank and take it out. Note that if the gauge is grounded directly to a tab on the tank, there may be no ground wire. Then disconnect both the sending wire and ground wire on the old sending unit. Turn off the power running to the boat’s systems before you disconnect any wires. Both wires lead to the back of the fuel gauge. There may also be a ground wire coming off a second post at the edge of the flange. The sending wire will come off a post in the center of the flange. Once you have cut the float arm to the correct length, fasten it with setscrews to the flange of the new sending unit that will be screwed into the top of the tank. A strong pair of wire cutters will work with most units, but some require a hacksaw. Next, trim the kit’s sending unit arm-they usually come in 24in lengths-and match it to the tank depth. This measurement determines the length of the sending unit’s float arm.
First measure tank depth from the top of the tank, near the sending unit, to the bottom.